Memphis to the Delta
Before you head out of Tennessee into Mississippi, make an effort to get a proper state map; the standard tourist ones aren’t very detailed.
The official Great River Road actually parallels the river on the Arkansas side, but for this trip you head straight south from Memphis on the mythical Highway 61. While you’re cruising, remember at 12:15 p.m. weekdays to tune your car radio to 1360 AM for the half-hour “King Biscuit Time” blues show, broadcast since 1941 from station KFFA in Helena, Arkansas (www.kingbiscuittime.com.)
With a family in tow, you’ll probably have to pass up the massive casinos as you go through Tunica, Mississippi, but try a stop at the Blue and White diner, 1355 Highway 61 North, for some classic Southern cooking.
When you get to the famous Crossroads (where old Highway 61 and Highway 49 cross in downtown Clarksdale) look for the commemorative guitar signpost way up in the air. Crank up Eric Clapton’s blues ode “Crossroads” and if anyone’s still hungry, stop at Abe’s BBQ, right near the sign, at 616 State Street.
Clarksdale, Mississippi
This small town has become the focus of pilgrimages for blues enthusiasts from around the world. Make no mistake, this part of the Delta is hardscrabble poor and if your kids haven’t really seen that before, it makes for some interesting discussions. Still, the family can really soak up some American heritage.
Delta Blues Museum
Right in downtown Clarksdale at a converted freight depot, this modest museum traces the history of blues music with displays, artifacts and video. Muddy Waters’ home from Stovall Plantation was literally moved here board-by-board and rebuilt within the museum.
Ground Zero Blues Club
Part-owned by local favorite son actor Morgan Freeman, this is right across the street from the Delta Blues Museum and makes a great lunch option, including a Sunday Blues Brunch with live acoustic blues. This is great for hearing some live music if you’re a little worried about checking out juke joints with young kids. Most performances are on weekends.
Cat Head Delta Blues and Folk Art
Another option for live music, plus a mind-boggling selection of CDs, books, DVDs and folk art.
Shack Up Inn
Make sure you know what you’re getting into before you stay here, or you and your family will get what co-owner Bill Talbot laughingly calls “Shack Shock.” The Days Inn this ain’t, but for authentic Delta ambiance, you can’t beat it.
The Inn is actually a group of sharecropper shotgun shacks that have been spiffed up a bit with air-conditioning and indoor plumbing, but also crazily decorated with an assortment of Southern music memorabilia. The welcoming Moon Pie on your pillow is a great touch (provide your own RC Cola.)
Try the “Legends” shack: it has a king-sized bed in one room, a small kitchenette, and two twins in the other bedroom. Your kids can strum on the electric guitar that comes with this shack, but it’s fun to just plunk down on the screened porch when the sun goes down and watch the world go by. You’ll need to go into town for meals, or stock the shack’s small fridge.
