When I first visited Puerto Morales -- in the Yucatan "Riviera Maya", just south of Cancun-- I had to wonder how long the place could remain a quiet hideaway, with a location between Cancun and Playa del Carmen.
Years passed; resorts were been built nearby; and yet -- writing after a return in 2006-- Puerto Morelos was still sleepy and laid-back.
Change can happen quickly, though: Playa del Carmen (a short distance further down the coast) proves that adage, transforming itself constantly, it seems, with more and different shops, hotels, etc. And more resorts are opening in the Puerto Morelos area.
Still, at time of writing, Puerto Morelos has a small town square, with several restaurants, upscale or down, a good bookstore, and a general grocery store. (Buy some vanilla there, for take-home gifts!) Beyond the square, a dozen or so small-scale hotels are scattered on the beach or tucked onto quiet streets.
Besides being conveniently close to Cancun, Puerto Morelos has two big pluses, location-wise.
- First, a few hundred yards off-shore is a wonderful coral reef; a number of local guides organize morning and afternoon excursions.
- Second, visitors are well positioned to hit the highway and head to the wonderful Mayan ruins and other attractions further south. (See Riviera Maya highlights)
Puerto Morelos is an interesting town, in that its small population is very savvy about the ecology of the coral reef and the potential environmental damages of development. Residents have been active in protesting certain developments in the past.
In 2006, the El Cid Marina opened, about 20 minutes walk away, and undoubtedly more resorts will populate the coast over time.
Still, for the moment, Puerto Morelos remains a place where travelers can stroll the square and be in Mexico. Let's hope that development proceeds intelligently.
By the way: Puerto Morelos was hit in 2005 by Hurricane Wilma, but immediately readied itself for the return of the tourists on which its economy depends so much. (And that lighthouse just off the town square was leaning years before the hurricane!)
*photo © Teresa Plowright
