Guide Review - Negril Beach, Jamaica

Our visit was in April, off-season, just after March Break.

Negril Beach
A seven-mile stretch of beach is pretty impressive. The sand is is a perfect walking surface at the waterline.

Negril: Ambiance
Negril has matured since its years as a legendary hippie hangout. True, adults may still be offered ganga, and there are boozy tourists around; but in general the atmosphere is relaxed. High season draws many families.

Some people feel hassled by vendors; the vendors we encountered weren't bothersome, but it's important to send a clear, polite signal that you're not interested.

The best beach-walking is south of the Beaches Negril resort; farther north, you'll reach the Hedonism resort-- 'nuff said. As for walking the beach after dark: some do it, but better to err on the side of caution.

Negril: Lodgings & Restaurants

Negril has many attractive small properties, often family-run, that welcome families. Most are nicely showcased at Negril.com. Note, however, that the word "resort" is loosely used. Most smaller places do have small swimming pools, and beachside restaurants.

Here's a sampling:

• Negril Tree House: enjoy the hammocks and wide verandahs at this friendly family-run place. Breakfasts are terrific. See pix.
• Charela Inn: Charela's owners are French and Jamaican; the inn is known for fine cuisine. Charela has special family units.
• Crystal Waters: guests rent a cottage that comes with a cook.
• Kuyaba: the beachside restaurant gets top marks for local-color decor.
• Merrils II: beachside restaurant; attractive units; small pretty pool.
• Sea Splash: we dined with the sea practically at our feet at Norma's Restaurant (--Norma being a popular Kingston restaurateur.) Sea Splash has fifteen suites.

see pictures of these Negril properties.

Negril Activities
A stay at Negril's smaller properties is an old-fashioned beach holiday: no videogame centers, no programmed activities. The beach is perfect for small kids, gentle and with good sand for sand-castles.

Some properties offer watersports such as kayaking, sunfish-sailing, sunset cruise.

Also, various small outfits along the beach offer glass-bottom boat rides or snorkel trips to the nearby coral reef. Negril typically has calm seas even when the north coast is rough.

tropical treat: drinking right out of a coconut

Finally, simply walking along the beach is fun: stop and sample different restaurants for snacks or drinks. You'll find small shops along the way; or head to the Times Square mall where you can barter even inside a proper store. (See tips about bartering.)

The Negril Cliffs
At the south end of the beach are the low Negril cliffs, actually made of old coral. Though not suitable for families with little ones, the cliffs are a great place to snorkel.

The most famous spot on the cliffs is Rick's Cafe which for some reason is the place to watch the sunset. Kids will enjoy watching tourists jump off 40-foot cliffs into the sea.

Our tastiest jerk chicken: these street vendors have licenses and are trained by the Tourist Board.

Negril Jamaica: Outings
The most-advertised tour in the Negril area is a combined outing to YS Falls and a Black River Safari. YS Falls is reportedly much quieter than the Dunn's River waterfall climb.

During our visit, we made an outing to the lesser-known Mayfield Falls: a quiet and beautiful spot, reached by an awful road but well worth the ride.