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Grouse Mountain, Vancouver BC

By Teresa Plowright, About.com

The Peak-- or the pits?

Visitors and locals alike love Grouse Mountain year-round: after just a twenty-minute drive from downtown Vancouver, those with skis, those with snowboards, those who simply want to visit the mountaintop can all pile into a gondola that whisks them up up and away, with breath-taking views of the city below.

Winter is high season: Grouse was Vancouver's first mountain to sport ski lifts. Grouse Mountain-- billed as The Peak of Vancouver--still beats the other two ski-mountains in creature comforts: its Lodge is rustic-ly attractive, and visitors can dine in the sky at The Observatory, enjoy a pleasant bistro atmosphere at Altitudes, or grab quick food at Lupin's Cafe.

In terms of skiing and 'boarding, Grouse can't compete with nearby Cypress Mountain which has more slopes, more lifts, less waiting-in-line. And the real peak ski experience in the region is undoubtedly Whistler-Blackcomb, an hour-and-a-half away. But Grouse has been an appealing choice especially for beginning and intermediate skiers, and especially for families who buy seasons passes for kids for a mere 40 bucks.

What the 2003 Santa brought

This year, change came to Grouse: and unlike most changes at ski resorts, it meant fewer lifts, and less choice in runs.

Formerly, Grouse's three main intermediate "blue" runs converged in one big wide swoosh that ended at two chair-lifts. Both lifts returned skiers to intermediate slopes like the ones they'd just skied down.

This year, these two lifts are replaced by one new lift that transports skiers right to the top of the Peak. Previously The Peak was classified "Black" for difficult. A few bumps have been hacked off, and voila, the Peak is called a "Blue" run now. Trouble is, it's much harder than the other Blue runs. There is one other Blue run down the mountain: it's reportedly a former road that's, well, as narrow as a road; often crowded; and flanked by a sheer drop on the left.

So what's an intermediate skier to do? Stick to The Cut, where the lone other lift is: a beginner's slope, dotted with six-year-olds in ski schools; a three-minute run down, for a half-hour lift line-up?

It's a shame, and baffling, when millions are spent on new infrastructure to move people up the mountain, yet the guest experience goes downhill.

Grouse Mountain is still a good choice for:

  • sight-seers who want to enjoy the view, the restaurants, or sleigh-rides (tractors, not horses)
  • beginner skiers content to ski only on The Cut
  • confident skiers who'll enjoy The Peak and several black diamond runs.

Yet even these happy souls should be aware that:

  • crowds get ridiculous during the Christmas season, when hordes of non-skiers ride the gondola up the mountain to see sparkling snow and city lights. Be prepared for an hour line-up to ride the gondola down the mountain.
  • be prepared also for long waits on the Cut during Christmas holidays and on weekends
  • when snow is scarce, don't trust the glib words on Grouse's Snow Info phone line (604-986-6262). Always check the website to see which runs are actually open.

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